Margalef

There is no need to say much about Margalef as it is very well known abroad as well as in Spain. There is no doubt that it is one of the most favourite Spanish crags. It is situated in the beautiful scenery of the Montsant Natural Park, 1 hour away from Lleida and about 2 hours away from Barcelona.

Margalef is a little sleepy village of thirty houses, one local bar, a climbing refuge, a cheap hotel and a restaurant. 

The crags are scattered around two little canyons, all very close to each other. Margalef rock is a conglomerate, not too solid but great anyway. Climbing there is peculiar as you mostly climb over one, two or three finger pockets together with some slopers and crimps and at some sectors, tufas as well. You can find great lines of all difficulties from the 5th grade to the 9th, which is one of the reasons why the area is so popular. Another reason is that once you get used to the style, redpointing there is not as difficult as in more demanding areas such as nearby Siurana. The grades in Margalef are little softer as well but it doesn't take any qualities away from the place. It is superb, good fun climbing in great scenery where everybody finds what they look for; more remote, quiet and tranquil crags such as Catedral and Ermita or always busy and fanatic crags literally just off the road such as Raco de Finestra or Laboratori. Margalef offers its typical slightly overhanging or vertical technical lines as well as slabs, steep overhangs and even some tufas too!

The whole area has developed very quickly and thanks to some local climbers there are a couple of new routes bolted every month and still there are loads of rocks left to be equipped in the future.

The weather in Margalef is very convenient as well, the best time to come is from late Autumn to Spring. Every day when you wake up you simply check out the weather and decide whether to go to the shade or to the sun as there are crags in all orientations. Probably the best time to come though is in the Winter when you can climb in Espadelles, Ermita, Cabernet in the sun and enjoy the great friction.

The only problem in Margalef is that as we said before it gets very busy especially during Bank Holidays and weekends so remember to check out Spanish and French Bank Holidays before you book your vacation if you don't like climbing in the crowds.

Getting to Margalef is easy. You can fly to Barcelona or Girona and hire a car as you will need one to get to the crags in Margalef itself. If you stay longer don't forget to check out nearby crags like Siurana, Arboli or Montsant which are all worth visiting as well. The whole province of Catalonia is now considered to be the place with the highest number of great quality sport climbing areas in the world.

There is no camp site in Margalef yet but close to the dam there is a free camping area and apart from that you have many options of economical accommodation from a refuge to apartments for rent or a cheap hotel down in the village. When staying in Margalef please help to protect the nature and do not leave any rubbish anywhere. It is one of the places where the locals have always been very friendly and welcoming to the climbers since they started to come but sadly over last couple of years it has been made clear that not even climbers know how to behave in nature.