Český Ráj

Bohemian Paradise, the oldest nature reserve in the Czech Republic is a place you go to experience 'different climbing’ and there is no way you will regret it! It is worth visiting not just because of climbing but also to enjoy the unique natural beauties of the region; sandstone towers surrounded by pine forests, peaks and deep valleys that form a special scenery full of diversity, on only a few tens of square kilometres.

Bohemian Paradise lies only about an hour away from Prague but don’t worry because climbing here you will still feel far away from the capital. The towers form what the Czechs call ‘rock towns’. These are sandstone formations that have been sculpted over millions of years by the wind, rain, sun and frost. From the top of the towers you can see not only the magnificent rock towns but on a clear day, you can enjoy the view over the whole country.  

As the rock is very soft, you are not allowed to use chalk or top-rope (top-roping the rope leaves a mark on the soft rock) and for the same reason there are very little bolts (or none) compared to what we are used to from sport climbing in Europe. Partly this is to protect the area and partly it has to do with the special mentality of local climbers whose approach has always been very traditional and purist.

From the beginning, Czech sandstone climbing has been influenced by the Saxon approach and has accepted similar rules. As a result of this, a unique form of climbing has developed. Using friends, nuts etc is prohibited to protect the rock, as well as bolting the routes which means in Bohemian Paradise you have to place knots of different sizes for protection, which sounds odd but it works! Leave your chalk-bag at home because chalk is not allowed either as it leaves marks on the rock. It is all quite an adventure but it is such a unique experience that it makes it worthwhile. The towers are up to 25 m long and it is typical sandstone climbing - slabs, vertical and slightly overhanging faces with very tiny feet and small holds, cracks, crimps and slopers...in other words sandstone climbing is a great challenge for your technique and will test your balance.

Bohemian Paradise is an area where it is easy to enjoy your rest days as well. It has been recently proclaimed as an UNESCO Geo-Park, which is further proof of the charm of the whole place. If you feel like doing something a little bit different you can go on a hike to one of many observation towers or visit some of the little castles and chateaux the area is full of.

When to go? The weather in the Czech republic is not that easy to predict. The best period to enjoy the sandstone would be from early Spring to late Autumn. It can get too cold in the Spring and too warm in the Summer though and also watch out for the rain! Make sure you check out the weather forecast before you go... 

There are a few camp sites in the area or if you prefer a little more comfort, you can choose one of the B&Bs (in Czech usually called 'Pension’) in Hrubá Skála or Libošovice etc. Even though public transport within Czekia is not bad, you will appreciate hiring a car and having the option to explore the area more thoroughly.